The Growth of Black Ivy
Picture this: In the hot Atlanta summers of the 1950s and 60s, during the desperate struggles for equal rights and amongst the ranks of members who attend the illustrious schools of Morehouse and Spelman, arrives a new style, statement, and way of life. A new vine grows in the garden of academic prestige and class. Species name: Black Ivy.
HBCUs, or Historically Black Colleges and Universities, like Howard University, Spelman College, and Morehouse College have made it their mission to educate the next generations of African Americans. Having been historically discriminated against within society, especially within the educational system (with institutions like Harvard only beginning to admit a substantial number of African American students in the 1950s), African American scholars have turned to these historically black institutions of learning in order to raise their socio-economic standing within society as well as form a tight-knit community of highly educated and well connected African Americans to lead their communities to prosperity.
Notable alums from these HBCUs include Kamala Harris, Therogood Marshall (both of whom attended Howard University), and the Reverend Dr Martin Luther King Jr (who attended Morehouse college). These famous and righteous figures need no explanation of their contributions within society and these examples go to show the high regards in which these HBCUs are held.
During and after the Civil Rights movement, in which African Americans had a great sense of community and presence within the United States, leaders across the country sought to subvert common narratives of the “uneducated” or “classless” African American and adopted a style similar to the preppy fashion of the Southern white elite as well as the Ivy League graduates that were held at the peak of society. Cashmere Sweaters and Polos dressed over Oxford collars and black turtle-necks were worn with high-waisted, pleated trousers and penny loafers to convey and solidify what many graduates of HBCUs and leaders within the African American community already knew—they were just as smart and educated, if not more, than their white counterparts, and deserved the same recognition.
This style was immediately adopted and co-opted by HBCUs who added their own twists to the style. Matching colors of their fraternities and sororities and different hair styles, jewelry and grillz accentuated their fashion, complementing their history, culture, and individual style, whilst continuing to uphold their aspirations and confidence within the social hierarchy of the time.
This style has carried over into contemporary fashion with companies such as Ralph Lauren and Levi’s releasing collections partnering with different HBCUs and African American designers, taking heavy inspiration from the Black Ivys of the past. This elegant and fierce style, closely guarded by many African Americans, is one of the only styles deemed fit enough and classy enough for the esteemed graduates, attendees, families, and communities of HBCUs.
Written by Erik Reichmeider, Design: Brooke Nugent, Social Media: Ramona Martin