MOSCHINO’S MAESTRO

“I don’t speak Italian, but I do speak Moschino,” said a 38-year-old Jeremy Scott to the corporate board of Moschino when being scouted for the position of the brand’s creative director. The Italian fashion house was founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino, who was an  Italian designer. After passing away in 1994, Franco was succeeded by another Italian designer, Rossella Jardini. Then Jardini left Moschino in 2013 to begin work at a competing brand, Missoni. Rather than keeping the designer lineage within the Italian gene pool, Moschino’s executives then decided to take a huge gamble -  the biggest gamble a luxury Italian brand can make. They hired an American designer. *Que Italian gasps*

Scott had a tall order when debuting his first collection with Moschino in February 2014, but the American fashionista did not disappoint. Bringing a modern revival to the brand which — until the 2014 collection — had peaked in popularity in the ‘90s, Scott delved into Franco’s Moschino tongue-in-cheek way of appealing to a young clientele by not taking oneself too seriously. Franco was a master of keeping fashion fun while still being respected in the luxury realm. So, to honor Franco’s spirit, Scott played into the irony of his American nationality when curating his first collection with the brand, throwing in the most American motifs possible. McDonald’s golden arches, SpongeBob’s cheesy smile, and never-ending nutrition labels were printed on gowns, suits, cocktail dresses, and capes. With a silly pattern alongside sophisticated silhouettes, the stage was set for the intrinsically camp designer.  

Over Scott’s decade-long career with Moschino, it was hard to find an unmemorable collection. Highlights of his work include the following: The Barbie collection, paper-doll collection, cardboard collection, flower (not florals - flowers) collection, Jackie O as a chic alien collection, doodles and sketches collection, “The Price Is Right” themed collection, Picasso collection, NYC subway collection, ‘let them literally be cake’ collection, nursery rhymes collection, fashionable furniture collection, and an inflatable pool toy collection.

One of my favorites was the Fall/Winter 2020 collection, which debuted just after the pandemic hit and the stay-home order was issued. Moschino showcased their collection through a literal marionette show, complete with marionette audience members - Anna Wintour included.

Over the years, Scott’s designs have been seen on celebrities at all kinds of red carpets and events. Miley Cyrus wore him while performing on her worldwide “Bangerz” tour in 2014, Angela Bassett wore him to the 2023 Oscars when she was nominated for Best Supporting Actress, and of course, there are the countless iconic Met Gala looks. In 2019 the Met Gala theme was “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” and Scott, the king of camp himself, did not hold back. That year, he dressed Katy Perry, Bella Hadid, Gwen Stefani, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Kacy Musgraves, just to name a few. Perry wore her memorable chandelier dress and hamburger after-party ensemble, while Hadid and Stefani were bejeweled to the nines. Ross wore a frame dress that paid tribute to Black artists, and Musgraves was a bombshell Barbie doll. Ever true to his own identity, Scott has the innate ability to bring personality to the forefront of every look.

Scott announced his departure from Moschino in March 2023 in order to dedicate his time to his self-titled brand, but he leaves behind a strong legacy and leads a dedicated fanbase. The 2019 Met Gala celebrated the opening of a new fashion exhibition dedicated to the free-thinking, risk-taking, boundary-pushing artists who found beauty in the ironic. The artists who found humor in those who take themselves too seriously. Jeremy Scott was able to walk into the gala with his head high, knowing every outlandish idea paid off.  Anyone who said differently could kindly be pointed in the direction of his debut McDonald’s golden arch dress proudly on display in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. 


 


Written by Parker Elkins, Photography: Fayobami Taiwo, Social Media: Krisha Atreya

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